查看完整版本 : IWC 懷表入手過程

KYCF 2015-5-15 12:37 AM

IWC 懷表入手過程

IWC 懷表入手過程

IWC是小弟的啟蒙品牌。F.A. Jones 以懷表起家,所以一直想入手一枚IWC的懷表。

條件有三,代表性的機芯、運作正常、跟以紅金為物料。
芯是懷表的靈魂,有代表性的就是追溯源頭。
運作正常就可以感受它的生命力。
紅金高貴,以前懷表是身份象徵,如果只買一隻,紅金非它不選了。

深知出面風高浪急,新手一定要作好準備。   

1. Date your IWC 軟件 - 以查證機芯及機殼出廠日期
2. 網上官方科林高手文章 - 以取得真品相片及歷史觀
3. IWC 舊目錄 Archive - 以取得Spec以跟賣家描述作對比
4. 真品相片作目測 - 最考思考但亦最有趣
5. 錶友意見
6. Check 賣家reference

最後入手了一隻品相很好的Hunter Pocket Watch.

Calibre 98是IWC萬國表最優秀的懷錶機芯之一,因為它是非常薄(4.3或4.43毫米)和擁有全橋設計(Full-bridge)。
由1936年至1966年間總產量約為1,600枚。主要用於懷錶。
其後亦有改良版,包括Calibre 982(加了shock resistance)和 Calibre 9828(特殊雕刻,在1993年的Jubilee Portugieser使用。

機芯是17 LIGNE(37.8 MM),17石,18,000bph(2.5Hz)。使用寶璣overcoil和鵝頸微調。

見過不同錶盤,但入手這隻是在1966年目錄中見的Ref. 123.

它跟小弟已擁有的1993 Jubilee 及 1996 Small Portugieser 錶盤同出一澈。可謂一門三傑。

[[i] 本帖最後由 KYCF 於 2015-5-15 12:40 AM 編輯 [/i]]

樓下看更 2015-5-15 04:23 AM

終於開始涉獵到懷錶嘅領域!恭喜!



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eta2892a2 2015-5-15 06:38 AM

K總擁有 International 鐘錶收藏,由 1960s 到 2014年,跨越半個世紀以上。而對鐘錶上智識、品味,時間就更加長。

錶,可能有金錢就可以買得到。而對單一系列追求,所花上精神、時間之多,實制上更令小弟真心佩服。

好純正 International Watch 產品,上世紀初設計,六十年代懷錶,九十年代腕錶,一套實物成為現實上一本真實族譜。



[url=http://m.discuss.com.hk][img=100,23]http://n2.hk/d/images/r10/mobile.jpg[/img][/url]

[[i] 本帖最後由 eta2892a2 於 2015-5-15 09:32 AM 編輯 [/i]]

Clockwork 2015-5-15 10:10 AM

恭喜K總三代同堂! 就黎每版都有你既腳毛;P

p.s. 把牛油刀好搶foc

cookie2013 2015-5-15 11:09 AM

K總對錶既情懐,值得小弟尊敬��



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KYCF 2015-5-15 11:19 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]cookie2013[/i] 於 2015-5-15 11:09 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=416831325&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
K總對錶既情懐,值得小弟尊敬��



[img]http://i.discuss.com.hk/d/images/r10/iphoneD.jpg[/img] [/quote]
感謝Cookie兄,大哥你玩Antique都響哂朵㗎啦!我就係被你,ETA兄,畢兄同好勁嘅PPPDDDAAA兄毒親!
:smile_o12::smile_o12::smile_o12:

[[i] 本帖最後由 KYCF 於 2015-5-15 11:22 AM 編輯 [/i]]

藍色的雨傘 2015-5-15 07:48 PM

K兄玩得真有品味!



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pppdddaaa 2015-5-15 08:42 PM

回覆 6# 的帖子

K-BIG always have good collection, Cal89 pocket watch movement is high grade and collectable.
Reading K-BIG post is touching and really can feel the passion on a professional watch collector. :smile_34:

I think IWC re-issued Cal89 do a great job when you compare the old and new one side by side.
BTW, I found some little different of them and I would like to leave this as a small question for K-BIG to play around~

Hints: The balance wheel is different but why it has different?

[[i] 本帖最後由 pppdddaaa 於 2015-5-15 08:47 PM 編輯 [/i]]

pppdddaaa 2015-5-15 08:45 PM

Also share my IWC pocket watch:
[url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/viewthread.php?tid=21312106&extra=page%3D23]http://www.discuss.com.hk/viewthread.php?tid=21312106&extra=page%3D23[/url]

Just found this interesting page: History of Portuguese
[url=http://www.timeandwatches.com/p/history-of-iwc-portuguese.html]http://www.timeandwatches.com/p/history-of-iwc-portuguese.html[/url]

The original Portuguese is Cal.74~

[[i] 本帖最後由 pppdddaaa 於 2015-5-15 09:05 PM 編輯 [/i]]

KYCF 2015-5-16 12:35 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]pppdddaaa[/i] 於 2015-5-15 08:42 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=416870265&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
K-BIG always have good collection, Cal89 pocket watch movement is high grade and collectable.
Reading K-BIG post is touching and really can feel the passion on a professional watch collector. :smile_ ... [/quote]

Wow...let me guess...hmm...hmm...避震裝置 INCA???

pppdddaaa 2015-5-16 12:25 PM

You already mentioned before, so not shockproof...

You can check your pocket watch balance wheel, you should found 2 open cut and not same to the wristwatch complete circle balance.
[img]http://nakahiro.parfait.ne.jp/image/image14/iwc98.jpeg[/img]

[quote]原帖由 [i]KYCF[/i] 於 2015-5-16 12:35 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=416886397&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]


Wow...let me guess...hmm...hmm...避震裝置 INCA??? [/quote]

KYCF 2015-5-16 05:55 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]pppdddaaa[/i] 於 2015-5-16 12:25 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=416913665&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
You already mentioned before, so not shockproof...

You can check your pocket watch balance wheel, you should found 2 open cut and not same to the wristwatch complete circle balance.
http://nakahir ... [/quote]
嘩!好勁,等佢fully unwound, 再研究下先!
PDA兄,這種open cut 有實際功能嗎?
如防冷縮熱漲?如是、Bimetallic balance wheel 可以解決問題嗎?
定是有其他功用呢?

pppdddaaa 2015-5-17 10:11 AM

Woo~ K-BIG you just hit the point!! :smile_34:

At that time, most of the "Adjusted" grade pocket watch movement will using Bimetallic compensating balance wheel to make the watch more accurate.
Those open cut is use to release the stress on the metal since it will have little positional change in between cold and hot weathers.
Actually the structure on this balance is "Z" shape instead of perfect circle.

However, you still can found some "circled balance" in low grade pocket watch / fake railroad pocket watch since it really costing.
The highest balance wheel (English deck watch / railroad pocket watch) will using solid gold / platinum weight screws for fine adjustment.

BTW, Bimetallic compensating balance rarely using in modern wristwatch after ppls found a better alloy with very good temperature coeff.
Also, smaller balance wheel design in wristwatch can decrease the effect on accuracy due to unbalanced weights.

[img]http://www.pocketwatchrepair.com/watch_resources/how-to-graphics/bi-metallic-balance.jpg[/img]

When you dig deeper in the pocket watch, you will find how beauty on the mechanical design can be.


[quote]原帖由 [i]KYCF[/i] 於 2015-5-16 05:55 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=416937845&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]

嘩!好勁,等佢fully unwound, 再研究下先!
PDA兄,這種open cut 有實際功能嗎?
如防冷縮熱漲?如是、Bimetallic balance wheel 可以解決問題嗎?
定是有其他功用呢? [/quote]

[[i] 本帖最後由 pppdddaaa 於 2015-5-17 10:13 AM 編輯 [/i]]

robwkh 2015-5-17 10:37 AM

K總, 點解一定要搵紅金?

KYCF 2015-5-17 07:42 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]pppdddaaa[/i] 於 2015-5-17 10:11 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=416989367&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
Woo~ K-BIG you just hit the point!! :smile_34:

At that time, most of the "Adjusted" grade pocket watch movement will using Bimetallic compensating balance wheel to make the watch more accurate.
Th ... [/quote]
Wow, there is so much to learn in the world of pocket watch.
Interesting to find out how watchmakers solved some of the trickiest problems in the search of accuracy. How solutions are improved with better knowledge and discovery of new materials.
Learned a lot from you, thank you so much.

KYCF 2015-5-17 08:19 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]robwkh[/i] 於 2015-5-17 10:37 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=416990920&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
K總, 點解一定要搵紅金? [/quote]
Robwkh兄,如果經歷了世界大戰,及二戰,戰亂時很多人為了生存,紛紛把珠寳手飾攞去溶。所以如果是原裝殼,經歷了戰事,還是紅金較有價值。另外,懷錶以前是有錢人玩兒,金較鋼更入形入格。至於紅金定黃金,個人喜好。Copper多啲,色澤深啲,滄桑味重啲,antique麻。
:smile_o10:

pppdddaaa 2015-5-17 09:50 PM

I just share what I know to everyone that have interest on it.
I also learn a lot from K-BIG and other Ching here~

[quote]原帖由 [i]KYCF[/i] 於 2015-5-17 07:42 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=417034960&ptid=24684833][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]

Wow, there is so much to learn in the world of pocket watch.
Interesting to find out how watchmakers solved some of the trickiest problems in the search of accuracy. How solutions are improved wit ... [/quote]

乜東 2015-7-14 10:15 PM

K-BIG

個名幾SUN SINN
個懷錶好美,恭喜!
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