moon_hill 2015-5-19 20:14
Yesterday, May 17th, Ethan Pringle claimed the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) at Clark Mountain, California. His friends Walker Emerson and Tom Moulin (shooting for The RV Project) filmed the ascent from a fixed line. Walker reported shortly after, “It was a dramatic ascent and I was really excited to be a part of it. He had it wired and was shaking out thru the cruxes…and yeah, he did top that shit out.”Jumbo Love holds suit as the hardest single pitch of rock climbing in North America. The 250-foot pitch was bolted, like most other hard routes at Clark’s Monastery, by the visionary equipper Randy Leavitt. The project saw attempts by Chris Lindner, Ethan, and Chris Sharma before it was finally redpointed by Sharma in 2008 after an extended effort. Sharma proposed the grade of 5.15b. It was the hardest route he’d done and considered possibly the hardest in the world.But Ethan’s campaign to send the line has run on even longer than Chris’. Along with Chris Lindner, Ethan has been one of the most consistent pro climbers to visit Clark, making frequent trips since the mid-2000s. In 2007, he climbed Leavitt’s famous Jumbo Pumping Hate (5.14a) on his 2nd try, and claimed the first ascent of the extension to Wall of Glass (5.14a), naming it Jumbo Glass (5.14c). Since then, he’s made seasonal visits to Clark with the goal of sending the big rig.In mid-April, the RV Project reported on Ethan’s progress. “Last week, he hit a major milestone by climbing through the first crux, falling later, then pulling back on and climbing to the top for his first (ever!) one-hang. He notes that he feels a little more comfortable on each little sequence every time up the wall.”With the cool conditions of late spring waning, Ethan wrote on Facebook three weeks ago, “It's warming up pretty quickly here in Las Vegas, and on the warm days when the wind completely disappears the first crux and really the entire route feels ha-a-ard! But I'm keeping my fingers crossed that a cool breeze will bless our afternoons up at Clark Mountain in early May! Wind, I need you bro! It would be nice to make a little (or a lot) more progress on the rig this season before I throw in the towel! For now I'm just gonna keep on keeping on, heat be damned!Apparently the heat held off and Pringle was able to climb his hardest route to date, capping a tick list of impressive ascents over the years. In 2007, Ethan claimed the fifth ascent of Chris Sharma’s benchmark 5.15a, Biographie at Ceuse, France. A few years later, he traveled the world for hard classics like Wheel of Life, a V15-ish endurance boulder problem in Australia’s Grampians, and the first ascent of Spicy Dumpling (5.14d) in Yangshuo, China. On his home turf of America, he’s repeated many of the hard classic routes including Just Do It (5.14c), Necessary Evil (5.14c), and the Golden Ticket (5.14c). Two months ago, Pringle was building endurance in Spain and came away with an ascent of La Reina Mora (5.14d) at Siurana.
[img]http://www.dpmclimbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/images/ethan_jumbo_love_web.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.dpmclimbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/images/adam%20resize%202.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.dpmclimbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/images/adam%20resize%203.jpg[/img]
[url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ethan-pringle-climbs-jumbo-love-515b]http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ethan-pringle-climbs-jumbo-love-515b[/url]
影片
3 Days With Ethan Pringle
[url=https://vimeo.com/45360164]https://vimeo.com/45360164[/url]
Ethan Pringle數年前曾到訪廣西陽朔攀岩，完成了白山最難的5.14d線路辣水餃Spicy Dumpling，本人有幸在2011年貴州Petzl格凸河攀岩節見到這位美國攀岩高手，並曾同檯吃飯，言談中他正在爬9a的路線。