查看完整版本 : Sharing of Bespoke Shoes

littlebearfatty 2016-12-6 08:37 PM

Sharing of Bespoke Shoes

As Geeboo ching requested, let me share some of my bespoke shoes. Any bespoke shoes from others are more than welcome to share here.

1)my 1st bespoke..#1
2)my 2nd bespoke..#18
3)my 3rd bespoke..#33

The following is my first bepsoke. I thought as the first one, it is natural to have a most verstaile pair and that's why I chose semi-brouge oxfords, in mid brown color, plus some hand coloring. The last is signature chisel last, which I like very much and the later 3 more pairs are also based on the same last.
[attach]6255512[/attach] [attach]6255513[/attach] [attach]6255514[/attach]

上腳照:
[attach]6255515[/attach]
I think they are so very versatile as they can match well with brown, grey amd blue suits

During Pitti:
[attach]6255516[/attach]
In Naples:
[attach]6255517[/attach]
Recent photo to match with Flannel 3 piece suits:
[attach]6255518[/attach]

[[i] 本帖最後由 littlebearfatty 於 2016-12-14 10:52 PM [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/android][img=100,23]http://i.discuss.com.hk/d/images/r10/androidD.jpg [/img][/url] 編輯 [/i]]

isabelly 2016-12-6 09:48 PM

想問下由落order度腳,到攞到最終製成品,總共要幾耐時間?

還有,係咪真係好fit好舒服?

cayuga 2016-12-6 11:11 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]littlebearfatty[/i] 於 2016-12-6 08:37 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452777758&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
As Geeboo ching requested, let me share some of my bespoke shoes. Any bespoke shoes from others are more than welcome to share here.:smile_38:

The following is my first bepsoke. I thought as the firs ... [/quote]

Want to ask if you have tried Antonio Meccariello.

I don't have the luxury to travel for non-business and seems Meccariello can accept to do MTM "remotely" by tracing out and measuring a pair of feet on a sketch.

littlebearfatty 2016-12-7 01:54 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]isabelly[/i] 於 2016-12-6 09:48 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452781242&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
想問下由落order度腳,到攞到最終製成品,總共要幾耐時間?

還有,係咪真係好fit好舒服? [/quote]


其實要等幾耐,好試乎幾樣野
1) 你幾時做Fitting? 如果鞋匠係會黎香港做trunkshow,你order後要視乎下次佢幾時來,通常都係幾個月黎一次。而如果鞋匠無黎香港,就睇你幾時再飛過去試。

2)鞋匠既手上訂單量,有d客話某些鞋匠要等一年或以上,並唔係做對鞋要超過一年,而係手上訂單太多,所以要排隊等。做對鞋,真正落手落腳,頂多幾日就攪掂。有d鞋匠團隊少人就耐d,有d團隊多d人就快d。

3) 最後一樣因素就係原材料供應。Bespoke鞋匠好少自己坐貨,都係收到order先至向Tannery直接或經agent 攞皮,一般calf都唔駛點等,但好似有d exotic leather, 又或者某d色既Cordovan, 就可能要多等幾個月。

至於我既鞋匠,試完就等三四個月就收到。

littlebearfatty 2016-12-7 02:48 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]isabelly[/i] 於 2016-12-6 09:48 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452781242&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
想問下由落order度腳,到攞到最終製成品,總共要幾耐時間?

還有,係咪真係好fit好舒服? [/quote]


至於係米好舒服,我個人經驗絕對係:smile_o13:

我平日唔駛企好多,行好多,着好多唔同牌子既RTW都冇乜問題, 我一直以為我對腳型冇問題:smile_13:

但係當去旅行時問題就浮現出來 好似啱啱六月去意大利同英國,着對J Fitzpatrick single monk 同Anthony Cleverley oxfords, 行路行到腳攰腰攰,腳趾尾又出水泡,着bespoke個日就乜事都冇,所以之後十月去上海面料展同北京成都定製會,都只敢着Bespoke 鞋,辛苦個幾星期,對腳依然舒舒服服:lol

當然,舒服與否,都要視乎鞋匠經驗同Fitting時的溝通,有時或者係第二第三對時再作修改。

我知道有些鞋匠(尤其是日本鞋匠)會花好多時間或特別方法係measurement度,但Fitting時又發覺trial shoes相差頗遠...:smile_45:

亦聽過有d人着bespoke都會痛,起水泡,又或者需要好長時間先break in到;P

呢個係我既last[attach]6256390[/attach]

[[i] 本帖最後由 littlebearfatty 於 2016-12-7 02:49 AM [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/android][img=100,23]http://i.discuss.com.hk/d/images/r10/androidD.jpg [/img][/url] 編輯 [/i]]

littlebearfatty 2016-12-7 02:53 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]cayuga[/i] 於 2016-12-6 11:11 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452785738&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]


Want to ask if you have tried Antonio Meccariello.

I don't have the luxury to travel for non-business and seems Meccariello can accept to do MTM "remotely" by tracing out and measuring a pair o ... [/quote]


haven't tried Meccariello...

I suggest if you wanna try, just go ahead...these bespoke master shoemakers are rare...you will only regret if they are suddenly gone like Stefano Bemer or Riccardo Bestetti :')

bergschrund 2016-12-7 04:22 AM

@bear
Is there good bespoke in HK or need to travel oversea?
do you have a recommendation of a where to start to get a value for money as a starting point for bespoke?

SSENSE 2016-12-7 05:08 AM

會唔會有入門級可以10k below...

[[i] 本帖最後由 SSENSE 於 2016-12-7 05:26 AM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2016-12-7 08:00 AM

wow wow:loveliness: :loveliness:
who is the maker of the 1st pair ?
Do U get back your last or left it in the maker for future orders ?
a shot on the shoe sole possible ?
Is it crust leather + hand-dyeing [very popular for Italian maker] or calf ?
how much cheaper if you use the same last for another pair or same px at all ?

agreed  "...these bespoke master shoemakers are rare...you will only regret if they are suddenly gone like Stefano Bemer or Riccardo Bestetti "

- not necessarily more durable or comfortable [but should be] , each pair of bespoke shoes is a piece of art, IMO. Bespoke shoes already transcend to not just being "shoes". it tells about the owner, it is only created for the owner.

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-7 09:36 AM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2016-12-7 09:17 AM

IIRC, Bear gor pair was made by Roberto Ugolini

It does look like a pair of Vass U last, doesn't it?:smile_47:

[[i] 本帖最後由 fishball_boy 於 2016-12-7 09:19 AM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2016-12-7 09:21 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-7 08:00 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452796171&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
wow wow:loveliness: :loveliness:
who is the maker of the 1st pair ?
Do U get back your last or left it in the maker for future orders ?
a shot on the shoe sole possible ?
Is it crust leather + h ... [/quote]

Geeboo, the soles you shown, some of them are welted, some of them not, right?

geeboo 2016-12-7 09:37 AM

photos capped from web - cannot ascertained, but I believed all are welted shoes

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-7 09:39 AM 編輯 [/i]]

cayuga 2016-12-7 01:42 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]littlebearfatty[/i] 於 2016-12-7 02:53 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452792326&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]



haven't tried Meccariello...

I suggest if you wanna try, just go ahead...these bespoke master shoemakers are rare...you will only regret if they are suddenly gone like Stefano Bemer or Riccardo Be ... [/quote]

Agree that fine craftsmanship is harder to come by year after year.

littlebearfatty 2016-12-7 03:26 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]bergschrund[/i] 於 2016-12-7 04:22 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452793339&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
@bear
Is there good bespoke in HK or need to travel oversea?
do you have a recommendation of a where to start to get a value for money as a starting point for bespoke? [/quote]


長駐香港既有日本師傅奧山大,黎香港做Trunkshow鞋匠都有好幾位,可以去Armoury 或Attire House睇下
至於點揀,好睇你個人喜好同budget...

littlebearfatty 2016-12-7 03:27 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]SSENSE[/i] 於 2016-12-7 05:08 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452793835&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
會唔會有入門級可以10k below... [/quote]


以我所知,冇:smile_35:

littlebearfatty 2016-12-7 03:47 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-7 08:00 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452796171&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
wow wow:loveliness: :loveliness:
who is the maker of the 1st pair ?
Do U get back your last or left it in the maker for future orders ?
a shot on the shoe sole possible ?
Is it crust leather + h ... [/quote]


who is the maker? Fishball has answered
The last is kept by the maker and 4 pairs have been done and one more is under process.
The leather is box calf+hand coloring, not crust leather.

For the Sole, here are some pictures:

my first pair[attach]6257839[/attach]
my second pair [attach]6257840[/attach]
my 4th pair
[attach]6257841[/attach]

geeboo 2016-12-7 04:16 PM

yo ! :loveliness:
Share of mine by a Chinese maker
the sole waist was re-lacquered by me because the nails got green rust & became blurred over time.:smile_13:
Why make this
1)  I like Edwardian style boots which is normally not available in RTW
2) I have studied many photos B4 the order. The heel treatment  - stitching - is rare even for real vintage
3) I am not required to wear formal suits to work so a bolder color combo is selected, again I tried to avoid those combo that can be readily found in RTW.

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-7 04:36 PM 編輯 [/i]]

littlebearfatty 2016-12-8 03:32 AM

After getting the first pair, I started to think about the second one. :smile_41:Since I got oxfords already, I decided to have a pair of monks. I like single monks but I got a pair of John Lobb Brentwood and Corthay Arca buckle already while I dont have a nice mid brown double monks. I think Double monks are safe and versatile choice but for bespoke, I wanna find some special features to make it more unique.:lol

I got a JL chapel in Dark Brown museum. The one piece design is wonderful but I find the last does not look particularly good on my feet.:smile_13: That's why I asked my master shoemaker, based on Chapel one piece design, change it to a more traditional arrangement of that two buckles. The toe part is too plain and he suggested adding a medallion of Lily of Florence.:smile_40:

For leather, I am fond of Ileca Radica calf(AKA museum calf) and have dark brown, parisian brown, plum already so I chose a one mid brown/gold museum calf. :$

So finally here is the outcome. :loveliness:

[attach]6260014[/attach] [attach]6260015[/attach] [attach]6260016[/attach] [attach]6260017[/attach] [attach]6260018[/attach] [attach]6260019[/attach] [attach]6260020[/attach] [attach]6260021[/attach]

I Know after my pair, he had already made several more similar pairs for other clients. Let me take this chance to praise myself that I have good taste to have designed such a popular model. ;P

[[i] 本帖最後由 littlebearfatty 於 2016-12-8 03:34 AM [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/android][img=100,23]http://i.discuss.com.hk/d/images/r10/androidD.jpg [/img][/url] 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2016-12-8 04:05 AM

single piece double monk - really special ! That is what bespoke is for - nice :loveliness:
it is not nice the maker used your design without your prior approval [if this design is original from U]

fishball_boy 2016-12-8 09:54 AM

To bespoke or not to bespoke, that is a question

小弟可能很早就喜歡皮鞋,所以第一對定造皮鞋是在高中年代,在那時的戲院里鏡記,那年代Church's好流行,大約好似是二千定千幾左右一對,那年做了暑期工,有點錢,我就照Church的款訂了一對oxford,承惠三百。

對鞋是一對很扎實傳統款式的鞋,鞋頭比較尖,也沒有甚麼設計可言,量腳也很簡單,畫了腳,量三個位就完成了。這種度腳造鞋的方式是香港大部份工場的方式,可以說是今天的MTM的方式。即「造鞋佬」有幾個頭型的楦,不同size,再按客戶的腳型「加」皮調整。為何我強調是「加」,因為減會改變楦型,大多數「造鞋佬」都唔願意減,令願用細D的楦狂加以達效果。我見過有D師傅的技術真的很厲害,想點加都得,而且連頭型都可「僭建」,由方轉圓又得,圓轉方都得。

fishball_boy 2016-12-8 10:00 AM

因為其實造楦同造鞋是兩個獨立「行業」或「專業」來的,很少人同時專門於兩個「範疇」(當然也有例外),但實際運作上,到今天,大部份造鞋師傅都不是自己造楦的,他們都是委託楦廠按他們的要求造了個「初稿」回來再執。

[[i] 本帖最後由 fishball_boy 於 2016-12-8 10:01 AM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2016-12-8 10:11 AM

my first MTM shoes was made ard 1993 in an upstairs shoe workshop around Tai Yau bldg in Wanchai. I forgot the exact location but the workshop was very dark with 3-4 cFu inside. In my memory, only a few [2-3 measurements] were taken. The finished product was too small - too snug & caused pain & did not fit [simple oxford]. costs was $600/ $800, can't remember the exact amt - total lost.

my second pair MTO was made ard 1994 in a shoe shop in Wanchai "Hay Tip" street, this time the shoe was fit. simple oxford, mediocre, not better than RTW from Seibu around the same period.:loveliness:

Recently, got an interest in re-shaping and polishing standard shoe last into my own desired curve & shape & of course my own size. Something like "委託楦廠按他們的要求造了個「初稿」回來再執。" :loveliness:

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-8 10:27 AM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2016-12-8 10:30 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-8 10:11 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452856826&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]


my second pair MTO was made ard 1994 in a shoe shop in Wanchai "Hay Tip" street, this time the shoe was fit. simple oxford, mediocre, not better than RTW from Seibu around the same period.:loveliness:

Recently, got an interest in re-shaping and polishing standard shoe last into my own desired curve & shape. [/quote]

I remember that shop at "Hay Tip" street. At that time, Wanchai has a lot of shoemakers, they made shoes for the American Fleet.
Why that pair is "mediocre"?

You mean you are building your own last from a pair of "standard last"? That is a interesting project!

This is the last I made for my wife:smile_35:

geeboo 2016-12-8 10:31 AM

You mean you are building your own last from a pair of "standard last" - yes :loveliness:
Why medicore - in simple term the shoe shape is not good looking. For the leather used, I remembered the owner said it was calf - quality wise, in terms of durability,it was a hair below the English made shoes like C&J. I was a salesman at that time & used to walk a lot; I had just 1 pair of shoes & worn it 5 days a week.

Your last shown looks like a men's last

:smile_13:

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-8 10:43 AM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2016-12-8 10:50 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-8 10:31 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452857908&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
Your last shown looks like a men's last

:smile_13: [/quote]

You don't have a good eyes on last;P;P;P

geeboo 2016-12-8 10:52 AM

how do U do the stitching on the shoes' edge, U got your own leather sewing machine ?

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-8 11:00 AM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2016-12-8 12:27 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-8 10:52 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452858889&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
how do U do the stitching on the shoes' edge, U got your own leather sewing machine ? [/quote]

That one is Blake, so no edge stitching. the sole stitching was done by hand.:P

geeboo 2016-12-8 12:31 PM

i mean the circled

fishball_boy 2016-12-8 01:01 PM

Oh, you mean the upper.
Just go to friends' workshop if I want to use

chowkin 2016-12-8 07:23 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]fishball_boy[/i] 於 2016-12-8 10:50 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452858789&ptid=26293594][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]


You don't have a good eyes on last;P;P;P [/quote]
Mrs Fishball is a lucky lady!!!!
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查看完整版本: Sharing of Bespoke Shoes