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geeboo 2016-12-10 12:31 PM

發up風share

見咁靜,發下up風
1)有前輩講過,人總是貪心的,永遠系嘴含蓍1舊餸,筷子已義著另外1舊,另眼也 kup 實第3舊
2)發哥講過窮過陣吏好想有勞斯來斯,到紅左揸過之後發覺亦不外如是。反而想揸番大發仔比較慳油
3)自己既經驗系以鞋黎計,我己經有38對,基本上我下半世可能連換後踭都冇需要,但總想緊做1對新boot。系靚,不過我對上3,4對鞋買番泥都未落過地。我地D物慾強既人就系咁,我仲衰,好多範都系咁。第1點已經講曬,買多左而家並吾會開心左
4)其實我而家反而響超市事無忌旦,吾睇價錢買嘢最開心,因為知道實用得著,又或者當屋企電器壞左買個部新既感覺重實在過去買多對John Lobb

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-10 12:41 PM 編輯 [/i]]

isabelly 2016-12-10 12:54 PM

講開買電器,我都係唔捨得買部 FashionMaster,攪到成日一堆恤衫未熨:smile_13:

小市民0009 2016-12-10 02:41 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]isabelly[/i] 於 2016-12-10 12:54 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452974974&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
講開買電器,我都係唔捨得買部 FashionMaster,攪到成日一堆恤衫未熨:smile_13: [/quote]


講起fashionmaster, 我記得好耐之前曾經在西裝帖提過下,但被其他師兄話係嘥錢,話恤衫熨得點靚,咪又係一著就即樔 (最衰連我個老虎都係咁話我!) 唉, 咁之後我都收聲無再提嘞:smile_39:

littlebearfatty 2016-12-10 11:59 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-10 12:31 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452973892&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
見咁靜,發下up風
1)有前輩講過,人總是貪心的,永遠系嘴含蓍1舊餸,筷子已義著另外1舊,另眼也 kup 實第3舊
2)發哥講過窮過陣吏好想有勞斯來斯,到紅左揸過之後發覺亦不外如是。反而想揸番大發 ... [/quote]


我個人見解,將西裝皮鞋視為興趣,就可減低"冇必要又買"既負面情緒;P試問呢d興趣,點都好過賭錢,飲酒同女人吧?:smile_30:
同埋相比其他玩意,西裝皮鞋既實用而又相對便宜,最大問題只係屋企需要更大,去收納西裝皮鞋jei:smile_35:

zidanely 2016-12-11 12:28 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-10 12:31 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=452973892&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
見咁靜,發下up風
1)有前輩講過,人總是貪心的,永遠系嘴含蓍1舊餸,筷子已義著另外1舊,另眼也 kup 實第3舊
2)發哥講過窮過陣吏好想有勞斯來斯,到紅左揸過之後發覺亦不外如是。反而想揸番大發 ... [/quote]

學多咗嘢挑剔咗,反而少咗亂買嘢,會更著重 value 唔係 price.

冇錢果時好多嘢想要,到有果時就乜都唔想要,果下好失落

cayuga 2016-12-11 12:34 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]littlebearfatty[/i] 於 2016-12-10 11:59 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=453006409&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]



我個人見解,將西裝皮鞋視為興趣,就可減低"冇必要又買"既負面情緒;P試問呢d興趣,點都好過賭錢,飲酒同女人吧?:smile_30:
同埋相比其他玩意,西裝皮鞋既實用而又相對便宜,最大問題只係屋企需 ... [/quote]

西裝皮鞋比起其他玩意真是十分化算。

買部車一落地已無咗一大截,可買一打JL慢慢著。

geeboo 2016-12-11 01:01 PM

#4
"最大問題只係屋企需要更大" - That is a very difficult problem :lol
#6
agree "買部車一落地已無咗一大截,可買一打JL慢慢著。"
But I am talking about mentality/ mindset.
1) The stamp duty of the cheapest flat in HK is talking about $500k ? - enough to make 10 A&S suits or 60 pairs of John Lobb. What I want to say is the $ spend on clothing is really 碎紙
2) I am talking about mentality
3) The same can be applied to car collectors, not 1 car but 10 super cars!; watches - not 1 vintage rolex/ pp  but a butch of vintage Rolex/pp; not 1 Grange but a vertical of Grange; not a pair of western Electric amp but a series of WE amp or JBL speakers, not 1 black paint vintage M2 but a bunch of vintage Leica cam & lens. There are just too many the best. I have a HK hifi friend who stocked 5 units of 15" Tannoy black - just a part of his collection; he plays vintage Lecia too !
4) It is not about the absolute amount, it is the mentality I am talking about - greed & lust

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-11 04:36 PM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2016-12-11 01:08 PM

collar & lapel shape

1) For most laymen - most women ! the collar and lapel shape, in terms of style [same for fit -double champion] is the single most important element, IMO, to determine whether a suit jacket looks good or not
2) I have got myself a fairly simple method to tell fairly accurately the shape of the collar & lapel
3) last pic is a share of my jackets with actual measurements that can serve to illustrate the effect on the size of collar & lapel on the general outlook.
4) the best size should be matched with one's face & body shape & shoulder width & the best looking collar and lapel size is different for different person
5) The "accuracy" of measurement of collar & shape is to the nearest  2'''  or 0.5cm - the distance that can have a visual difference.

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-11 03:48 PM 編輯 [/i]]

cayuga 2016-12-11 02:01 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-11 01:01 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=453027077&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
#4
"最大問題只係屋企需要更大" - That is a very difficult problem :lol
#6
agree "買部車一落地已無咗一大截,可買一打JL慢慢著。"
But I am talking about mentality/ mindset.
1) The stamp duty of ... [/quote]

Leica is absolutely for style but the limitation is its 35mm format.

I used to shoot 6x6 in a rangefinder when I didn't have monkeys to fool around with.

Of course, "M" brand is like the Toyota of camera and cannot be compared with Leica.

geeboo 2016-12-11 03:03 PM

#9
玩野無分貴賤。 玩開就知, 最緊要有得玩。 我的蠢見-堅持品牌"The best"和價錢只是小學級別。 過程,經驗和知識才是最重要:smile_35:


咁講, 靚梗系好過吾靚

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-11 04:27 PM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2016-12-11 04:05 PM

*** 該帖被屏蔽 ***

fishball_boy 2016-12-11 04:15 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-11 01:01 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=453027077&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
#4
"最大問題只係屋企需要更大" - That is a very difficult problem :lol
#6
agree "買部車一落地已無咗一大截,可買一打JL慢慢著。"
But I am talking about mentality/ mindset.
1) The stamp duty of ... [/quote]

Geeboo哥,我喜歡Hill of Grace多過Grange. 我家好似只剩五個年份的Grange.

geeboo 2016-12-11 04:20 PM

你咪 vertical fans 囉 ! you are the better one, I have a whole vertical of wolf blass yellow label - those available from Park'n [講笑:smile_35:] Next time if we have chance to taste wine together, U "jar fit".
My requirement is simple, 要好飲, 平,靚,正 !

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-11 04:53 PM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2016-12-11 05:27 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2016-12-11 04:20 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=453037562&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
你咪 vertical fans 囉 ! you are the better one, I have a whole vertical of wolf blass yellow label - those available from Park'n [講笑:smile_35:] Next time if we have chance to taste wine together, U  ... [/quote]

就飲yellow label囉:)

zidanely 2016-12-11 07:02 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]fishball_boy[/i] 於 2016-12-11 04:15 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=453037309&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]


Geeboo哥,我喜歡Hill of Grace多過Grange. 我家好似只剩五個年份的Grange. [/quote]

推介師兄試下 Clarendon Hills 嘅 Astralis,唔會比 Grange 差,價錢都只係佢 1/3

fishball_boy 2016-12-11 07:44 PM

[quote]原帖由 [i]zidanely[/i] 於 2016-12-11 07:02 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=453045882&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]


推介師兄試下 Clarendon Hills 嘅 Astralis,唔會比 Grange 差,價錢都只係佢 1/3 [/quote]

你指呢支?ok la,不過我係想要hill of grace的style

不過我比較喜歡他們的Grenache

[[i] 本帖最後由 fishball_boy 於 2016-12-11 07:59 PM 編輯 [/i]]

zidanely 2016-12-13 10:49 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]fishball_boy[/i] 於 2016-12-11 07:44 PM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=453047892&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]


你指呢支?ok la,不過我係想要hill of grace的style

不過我比較喜歡他們的Grenache [/quote]


我都係比較鐘意溝咗 Grenache 嘅 Shiraz (約 5%) ,覺得份層次感比溝 Cab Sauv 更出

geeboo 2016-12-18 10:18 AM

share of some lining
the 2nd one is silk. all others are Bemberg. Pls note 1 have diagonal pattern, 3 are horizontal

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-18 10:20 AM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2016-12-18 11:15 AM

some silk lining

geeboo 2016-12-18 12:13 PM

an objective criteria to judge if one looks good for bespoke clothing

Overall, one either looks good or not good.
however, there is no harm to judge it on a scientific basis.
My scoring board are as follows, it also shows areas of attention to pay to:
1) Fit & cutting = [color=#ff0000]30%[/color] - since it is bespoke, over 90% in chance the size will be "fit". So, attention is given whether it can enhance the overall body shape of the wearer & details like how well has the sleeve been attached & shoulders been made ? Are there any wrinkles in the back & sleeves ? To look good does not confine to model-figured body. Winston Churchill [fat] & the Duke of Windsor [skinny & short] were renowned well-dressed people. Cutting do matter.
2) Texture of fabrics  =[color=#ff0000]20%[/color] - a well-cut, well matched, stylish & fit body suit certainly looks horrible if made with a shiny polyester mix fabric. The sheen of a good quality cashmere or linen or woolen jacket almost tell immediately it is a good piece [only the best quality fabrics have a natural sheen that is almost immediately distinguishable from the mediocre].
3) Color matching =[color=#ff0000]20%[/color] - color & pattern of the jacket itself & its matching with shirts, pants. I cannot tell more the importance of this in determining whether one looks good or bad.
4) Style & Flare= [color=#ff0000]20%[/color] - for example, if U wear a bell-bottom trousers with a suit jacket today, the score under this category will be zero. and Unless you are going to a Korean party, a super-short jacket exposing your butt with a skinny lapel also scores zero. Even with the same style say, top notched, big lapel jacket, someone wear it with "flare", some just look mediocre - "flare"[光彩] is something difficult to explain & achieve.
5) Execution of all kinds of details =[color=#ff0000]10%[/color] - no details =0, mediocre =5, well-made=10. Details costs most of the $ & all of the gimmicks in marketing, but think about it carefully, does all of the above criteria really precedes "details" in determining whether looking good or not ? After very careful consideration, my answer is positive. Details are the last things 99% of the mass look at when determining whether a person looks good or not But is the 1st thing aficionado look at when judging others' suits.

When learning canoeing, the way to avoid getting lost is to focus on a distant mountain for the direction one are heading so as to prevent from being drifted away. In terms of fashion, IMO, one has to focus on one's own goal, mine is to be well-dressed, in each & every purchase, otherwise, it is easy to get lost in the sea of fashion. There are just infinite number of things to buy, to stay in focus of what you want to achieve is very important, IMO; again.

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-18 04:40 PM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2016-12-25 09:25 AM

我大你隻手, 打開個底黎見我

[b]扭袖分享[/b]
A ching once said 上袖 really tests the cFu licence. I  second :smile_35:
Out of 10 jkts I see on web, >9 are twisted, <1 is not.
I hope U are straight:smile_35:

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2016-12-25 09:46 AM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2016-12-31 12:23 AM

Some vintage fabrics showing shades of Olive

geeboo 2017-1-1 10:17 AM

a well-cut suit can make a huge guy like Arnold look as good as a fashion model. :smile_35:
From his face on the right pic ard the same period, it can be seen how large he actually was when naked.
Cutting do matter.

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2017-1-1 01:31 PM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2017-1-6 09:15 AM

a few stylish men

geeboo 2017-1-9 09:14 AM

布 尼家嘢好怪。凡系新布都系靚架啦,真正的靚布系響你著左1排,又或這洗左幾十次後,如果件衫的布同你當天買既時候"差
吾多",襟愧布就靚la。IMO,  a true reflection on the quality of the cloth - not H&S, not Zegna, not cashmere, not super 180s, not 4x2 weave, not sea island cotton.
"襟新"is the key word [no pilling, no fade in color or sheen],響恤衫布尤其明顯。
而家D大陸造suiting布,吾記得150支定180支,滑不溜手,光澤也好。如剪3方吋布辨,你話佢系瑞士布或英國頂級布都得!!不過襟吾襟就吾知喇。
所以,揀布都系英國布隱陣 - 夠挺,襟新。人地真系有文化架。
吾知其他師兄有無分享?
[i][size=2][/size][/i]
[i][size=2]further reading for cloth finishes:     [url=https://www.permanentstyle.com/2013/04/wt-johnsons-finishers-huddersfield.html]https://www.permanentstyle.com/2013/04/wt-johnsons-finishers-huddersfield.html[/url][/size][/i]
[i][size=2][color=#800080]https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/07/the-appeal-of-the-cotton-suit-bespoke-from-elia-caliendo.html[/color][/size][/i]
[i][size=2][color=#800080][/color][/size][/i]

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2017-1-9 10:28 AM 編輯 [/i]]

fishball_boy 2017-1-11 10:19 AM

[quote]原帖由 [i]geeboo[/i] 於 2017-1-9 09:14 AM 發表 [url=http://www.discuss.com.hk/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=454499400&ptid=26302042][img]http://www.discuss.com.hk/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
布 尼家嘢好怪。凡系新布都系靚架啦,真正的靚布系響你著左1排,又或這洗左幾十次後,如果件衫的布同你當天買既時候"差
吾多",襟愧布就靚la。IMO,  a true reflection on the quality of the cl ... [/quote]

我昨天著了件09年造的單衫,望落同新的時候沒有兩樣,我估這就叫做襟吧?
最襟的料,以我的經驗是粗呢tweed.
厚Fresco基本上都係非常襟著

最唔襟著,以小弟有限的經驗,著兩三年就覺得舊的,係D平價意大利料:smile_13:

geeboo 2017-1-11 10:40 AM

"最唔襟著,以小弟有限的經驗,著兩三年就覺得舊的,係D平價意大利料.."  agree x2 :loveliness:

P.S. the key word is not "襟/ durable/ hard-wearing" but "襟新".

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2017-1-11 10:42 AM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2017-1-17 09:51 AM

現任 英派掌門人-查理斯皇子

好多英派西裝友 睇佢為馬首事瞻-皇子話得,邊個敢話吾得? 事實上,佢真係幾好taste嘅,需則佢而家D西裝系濶左少少一隻系少少,但計埋年紀,comfort需要,著出嚟仍然 系十分優雅嘅。
吾怪得佢可例入歷史  well-dressed man[b]榜[/b]。
Also a walking model of Anderson Sheppard :loveliness:
The Best example of the British understated elegance.
From various sources I have read, he has the preferences of:
[list][*]lighter color fabric for suits[*]jetted pocket for jackets [no flap][*]double breasted for suits[*]A&S as his tailor[*]to keep & wear his clothing for as long as possible [even with many taking-in and out & mending][/list]
Let's see what A&S said in their blog as a reflection of the superior status of the Prince
"... Thursday 6th December 2012 will forever be remembered as being a historic day for Anderson & Sheppard..........Staying far longer than was planned, His Royal Highness then made his way to the front door and to his car. His visit was over, but it was a day we will never forget."
[size=2][i]http://www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/thenotebook/hrh-the-prince-of-wales-visit/[/i][/size]
[size=2][/size]
[size=2][/size]May I boldly conclude his style [the final evolution of dressing] as : comfort and simplicity without losing the elegance as should be depicted by a member of the Royal family.

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2017-1-17 04:07 PM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2017-1-18 05:34 PM

abbraccio

when I 1st saw the overcoat of Valentino Ricci - far right - I was immediately attracted by its widely-spaced buttons & had been tempted to commission one.
Not only until today I found out there is actually a technical term for it & a function followed by its form. To re-capp from web "The Bespoke Dudes" :
"In the bespoke tailoring jargon the word “[b][color=#ff0000]abbraccio[/color][/b]” (literally “hug”) refers to the horizontal distance between a double-breasted jacket’s buttons. [u]The farther they are, the more the jacket will “hug” the wearer, keeping him/her warmer.[/u] The coat in the photo [far left] has an “abbraccio” of 20cm, which is a lot if compared to the usual 14cm of the ready-to-wear industry." :loveliness:

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2017-1-26 09:01 AM 編輯 [/i]]

geeboo 2017-1-25 10:23 PM

THE ART OF BEING DISCREET

an interesting reading:loveliness:
[url=https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-art-of-being-discreet-and-a-few-secrets-that-you-may-not-know/]https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-art-of-being-discreet-and-a-few-secrets-that-you-may-not-know/[/url]
I particularly like this sentence "Restrict Compliments since Quality is Assumed"
I would also add
"try not to talk about "rules" since they are assumed to be known"; tell me why & how you break them with your own personality blended-in.

[[i] 本帖最後由 geeboo 於 2017-1-25 11:57 PM 編輯 [/i]]
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